Story | Leslie Yip Photography | Bearface Whisky
Mention matsutake to Japanese cuisine connoisseurs and their eyes light up. While the name translates simply to “pine mushrooms”, it is given such revered monikers as “king of mushrooms” and even “the sacred mushroom”. One kilogram can set you back more than $2,000, making it the third most expensive mushroom, after Yartsa Gunbu and the European white truffle.
What makes it so special? Flavour-wise, it has a distinctive spicy earthiness and buttery pine fragrance, but it is sought after for more than its taste. Matsutakes are said to be highly nutritious, and some even claim to stunt the growth of tumours, stabilize blood sugar for diabetics, protect cells from radiation damage, and increase general immunity and anti-aging effects—thanks to their anti-oxidant properties.
The matsutake is an extremely scarce and sought-after mushroom that grows naturally in British Columbia. It is delicious, nutritious and almost impossible to cultivate, and can only be harvested once a year. Consequently, it commands top dollar worldwide, especially in Japan.
Unfortunately, they are not easy to come by. They grow only on the roots of mature red pine trees in specific weather conditions, and suitable habitats are quickly disappearing due to human development and insect problems. They would appear only after a wildfire event and sufficient rain, but once they sprout, they grow very fast, and must be picked before their cap opens, or the flavour and nutrition profiles rapidly deteriorate.
Also, they are very delicate, and need to be consumed within two to three days of picking. Numerous attempts have been made to cultivate them, but none has been successful so far.
Luckily for Canadians, they grow wild in the Monashee Mountains of British Columbia. That being said, the volume is still limited, and the window of opportunity to collect them is very small—only four or five days in a year, usually in September.
Typically hidden under forest moss, they are typically located by scent, not sight. Experienced foragers say you can smell their floralness before you can see them. Despite all these challenges, a Canadian whisky company is infusing these rare mushrooms into a special collection. Drawing inspiration from the Canadian wilderness and making full use of the freedoms that Canada offers them as whiskymakers, BC-based Bearface has created the new “Bearface Wilderness Series“ and its first release features the elusive fungus.
There is a strict ethical code among matsutake foragers. They must never take advantage of what Mother Nature provides, so they always leave a certain amount behind. Moreover, they will never disclose their secret locations.
“In recent years, many of the world’s most acclaimed mixologists have been embracing the potential of umami-rich fungi as an inventive cocktail ingredient,” says Bram Bolwijn, Sommelier Forager at Bearface. For those who are uninitiated, umami describes the meaty, savoury deliciousness of foods like aged cheeses, meats, fermented soy foods and shellfish, among others.
The limited-edition whisky is aged in different styles of wine, sherry and matsutake casks. As part of its unique “Elemental Ageing” process, the casks are matured in repurposed shipping containers and exposed to the extreme elements in the Canadian wilderness.
Casks of Bearface whisky are maturing inside these repurposed shipping containers. Temperature can fluctuate wildly in a single day under steel, from freezing double-digit numbers to searing 40-degree summer heat. The extreme environment amplifies how the whisky and wood barrels interact, transforming the liquid inside for a bolder and smoother flavour.
The result of infusing Bearface whisky with matsutake mushrooms is complex—layered whisky with nutmeg, cinnamon and rounded nuttiness, followed by a leafy earthiness with an umami finish. Andres Faustinelli, master blender at Bearface Whisky, explains: “The Wilderness Series is another example of how we connect with nature and the elements to create whiskies that are wilder and more adventurous than anything else out there.”
A Canadian whisky company, whose purpose is to return Canada to the world stage by challenging the norms of traditional whisky-making. The first launch of this innovative series features premium single grain whisky infused with foraged wild-grown matsutakes from the mountains of British Columbia.
The new Bearface Wilderness Series: Matsutake Release 01 can be enjoyed neat or on the rocks to appreciate its full flavour, but Faustinelli also encourages experimentation with cocktail-making. It is available this spring in British Columbia, Alberta and Ontario for a limited time. Other releases in the Wilderness Series will follow.
