Story | Leslie Yip Boucher-Harris Photography | Simon Boucher-Harris
If you are looking for a getaway with a complete change of scenery and pace, a mix of adventures and lazy days, then we have found you the perfect place.
Do you prefer a holiday by the seaside or in the mountains? With Belize you can have the best of both.
The former British colony, just four hours away from Toronto by direct flight, is home to the second largest barrier reef in the world. Also known as the Great Mayan Reef, it offers an unparalleled range of experiences, from snorkelling around pristine coral reefs, to swimming with sharks fishing for the seas bounty and scuba diving at the famous Blue Hole.
You can even catch your own lunch. We went on a reef fishing excursion, and caught enough snappers for lunch for two. The captain helped us clean and filet the fish which the restaurant cooked for us for free.Land-based attractions are just as varied. You can explore the mountains and caves, zipline through a rainforest, admire waterfalls and paddle on rivers. If you are interested in local culture and history, there are vibrant markets and numerous Mayan archeological sites that are not overrun by tourists. No wonder Forbes magazine calls Belize an “underthe-radar destination that should be on your list”.
I am not the first Canadian to fall in love with this country. In 2005, a Montreal criminal defence lawyer named Daniel Lighter took a seaside holiday here on the island of Ambergris for the first time. He was so taken by the tranquility of the island and the friendliness of the locals, he came back six weeks later and bought a 14-room resort on a secluded stretch of the beach, only a short kayak paddle from the barrier reef.
You can even catch your own lunch. We went on a reef fishing excursion, and caught enough snappers for lunch for two. The captain helped us clean and filet the fish which the restaurant cooked for us for free.
Fast forward 19 years, I am sipping a coconut mojito in a swinging egg chair on the front porch of my beachfront cherry-red private villa.
Welcome to Matachica Resort & Spa
Although Lighter had no previous hotel management experience when he bought the resort, he had the vision of creating a premium destination. Since he took over, the resort has grown to 31 private casitas and villas. From a distance, they look local and authentic with their thatched roofs. But when you look closer, quiet luxury touches like Frette linens and Haeckels amenities are everywhere, thanks to a massive redesign spearheaded by Canadian twins Bryant and Dexter Peart, former cofounders and designers of WANT Les Essentiels.
There is also the Jade Spa, which incorporates local ingredients like coffee, chocolate and fruits into its treatments; and Mambo Restaurant, winner of the prestigious World Luxury Restaurant Awards.
Taco, the hotel mascot, has his own beach house by the dock. He is well-loved by staff and guests alike.
A Mini French Laundry by the Sea
Some resorts like to boast about the number of on-site restaurants. Matachica has just one, divided into the bistro and the main restaurant. After eating there, you will agree that one very good restaurant beats 10 mediocre ones.
Chef Stephen Lighter is the owner’s son, a Culinary Institution of America graduate, a respected baker in Montreal and former chef at Bouchon Bakery. Breads and pastries are baked daily on-site, and they are truly addictive.
You can call Mambo at Matachica, a mini French Laundry of the Caribbean. It is run by Stephen Lighter, one of the owner’s five sons, who was trained at The French Laundry’s Bouchon Bakery after he graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, along with chef Léon Cerredo, former head chef de partie at The French Laundry.
Tenderloin carpaccio is an explosion of colours and flavours.
Fish taco made with the snappers we caught that morning.
Instead of replicating Thomas Keller’s menu, the duo wanted to bring a sense of place to their dishes. Furthermore, they are on a mission to change local consumer perception that international and imported food is better. So, they travelled from one coast of Belize to the other to explore farms, producers and plantations. Locally sourced seafood is, of course, the star of the beach-front restaurant’s menu,but it is the unusual combination of French techniques and Belizean flavours and ingredients that shines through in the dishes.
Seafood lovers must try Deep Blue, a seafood medley prepared in different ways.
True to their French Laundry roots, they pay particular attention to the vegetables they serve. The culinary garden has always been a hallmark of the three-Michelin-star restaurant and. Mambo has one too. A—a 1.5-acre organic farm at their sister property, Gaia Riverlodge, is a three-time Green Globe certified, hydro-powered hotel located in the Cayo District of Belize.
Montreal mixologist Jocelyn Moore designs cocktails that reflect local ingredients and culture. The paper plane on this drink pays homage to the Puddle Jumper, the local Tropic Air plane, which connects San Pedro island to Belize International Airport.
Locally inspired cocktails are a highlight of the menu.
Death by Chocolate
Did you know that Belize is known as the “cradle of chocolate”? Cacao trees have been grown here since ancient Mayan times, thousands of years ago. While staying at Gaïa, we visited Ajaw Chocolate, run by Adrian Choco—you read that right, his last name is Choco! He comes from Mayan heritage, and his family has been growing cacao for generations. Here, you can taste the flesh of a fresh cacao fruit—it tastes a bit like a mangosteen. Then, after learning about the fermentation and drying process, you can grind a bean using a traditional flat stone mortar to make your own hot chocolate drink. This is a must-do experience.
We also got a taste of a local chocolate-infused rum by Copalli at Danny’s Bar at matachica, a circular bamboo and wood bar built around the property’s statuesque almond tree. It was surprising to find such a rich chocolate taste in a clear liquid. We challenged Lance, the bartender, to create two different cocktails with it. He rose to the challenge, and presented one that was blended with Kahlúa coffee liquor, and another with chocolate ganache with a splash of Frangelico hazelnut liquor and coconut rum. Both were delicious.
Don’t miss the cocktail hour at Danny’s bar where you can sample many of the delicious local creations.
While many come to Gaïa as a retreat, it is also an ideal base to explore the rainforest, the archaeological sites and cultural experiences in the area.
Active vacationers can go ziplining, cave-tubing or hiking. There is also a Mountain Pine Ridge tour to see the Thousand Foot Waterfalls at the Hidden Valley area in Belize’s largest national park.
History buffs should not miss the archeology tours of Caracol, the most recently excavated Mayan site located deep in the Chiquibul Rainforest, and Tikal in Guatemala, famous for the Temple of Jaguar and the Temple of the Masks, each towering more than 44 metres.
I chose a more leisurely cultural excursion, which began in San Ignacio, where the Saturday market is held. This is also where the chocolate experience is held. While you are in the town, you need to try the delicious roadside barbecue. The ribs or chicken are wrapped in a tortilla shell, which is a great idea as the shell soaks up the juice to amplify flavours, and it is a lot less messy.
San Ignacio’s markets are a must visit, abounding with local treats.
San Ignacio’s markets are a must visit, abounding with local produce.
After lunch, we got a bit more adventurous. Our guide took us to Barton Creek for a canoe trip inside the famous cave. It was a ceremonial site for ancient Mayans artifacts, including a human skull, are left in place for visitors to see—quite a rare practice among archeological sites. The cave also has some intriguing rock formations, such as the “cathedral ceiling” and a flying bridge. Well, I said adventurous, but it was actually a very relaxed and leisurely experience, especially when we had the whole mile-long cave to ourselves for nearly half an hour.
I felt that I had hardly scratched the surface when it was time to leave. There are so many more experiences to be discovered in Belize, and I can’t wait to be back.
Gaïa Riverlodge
Seven years after Daniel Lighter took ownership of the seaside Matachica, he purchased his second property, Gaïa Riverlodge. Set upon the Five Sisters waterfalls in the secluded Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, it is paradise for nature lovers.
Guests have private access to the waterfall and the fresh- water natural swimming pools, accessible by a hydro-powered mini-tram. Experience complete bliss with a sunset aromatherapy massage at the riverside spa. There are nature trails on the property, and in the morning, the hotel offers complimentary jungle walks and bird watching.
Thatch-roofed private cabanas, cladded with palmetto sticks, are perched along the hillside, each with an expansive balcony overlooking the river or the mountains.
Another favourite on-site activity is to tour the Mayan organic garden, which provides fresh fruits and vegetables to Mambo at Matachica, as well as the Five Sisters Restaurant here at Gaïa. Samuel, their expert Mayan farmer, loves to share gardening tips, and it is lovely to see, first hand, the true meaning of farm-to-table dining.
The soothing sound of the waterfall surrounds you day and night, thanks to meshmounted windows that let in the mountain breeze. Local hardwood floors and hand crafted furnishings add a touch of warmth.
The open-air restaurant is the social hub of the resort. Set upon multiple levels of terraces overlooking the river, the view is simply breathtaking. The menu features Belizean and international cuisine, always incorporating local ingredients and flavours. If you are lucky, you may get invited by Nigel, the resort manager, to join the Cultural Table, a communal dining experience with a tasting menu featuring cocktails and dishes inspired by the diverse backgrounds of Belizeans.
