Story & Photography | Renée S. Suen
Surrounded by the warm, cerulean waters of the South Pacific, French Polynesia is a collection of 118 islands and atolls scattered across an area the size of Europe.
Of the five archipelagos, the Society Islands is the largest. It includes the Windward Islands, plus the country’s capital of Papeete, on the island of Tahiti, and the Leeward Islands that include L’Ile Vanille, Taha’a and perennial honeymooner favourite Bora Bora.
Bora Bora is known as the Pearl of the South Seas. (Image courtesy of John Kincaid)
Filled with manicured resorts, some perched over crystalline lagoons with tropical fish, the network of islands is reachable by plane or boat from Faa’a International Airport in Tahiti. Here, the Pacific Franc is the chosen currency, although many accept US dollars.
Tucked Away Gem: Le Taha’a by Pearl Resorts
For understated charm, a relaxed atmosphere and fragrant vanillakissed breezes, look no further than the quiet, flower-shaped island of Taha’a.
Consider a visit to the Vallée De La Vanille plantation, producer of Tahiti’s world-renowned vanilla, or the family-owned Iaorana Pearl Farm for black pearls. Sip local rum distilled by Domaine Pari Pari, or find serenity snorkelling in the lesser-trekked waters and discover a colourful array of tropical fish in the Coral garden and Tautau.
Located on the secluded inlet of Motu Tautau, Le Taha’a transports guests to a timeless space where sophistication, culture and nature intersect. As the only Relais et Châteaux member in French Polynesia, this intimate five-star property is tucked within the wave-fringed north reef and offers guests a choice of suites and villas.
The main swimming pool at Le Taha’a.
The property has 48 overwater bungalows that are nestled over a stunning lagoon, in addition to 10 one-bedroom beach villas and two royal beach villas featuring two bedrooms and a plunge pool.
Built around existing lush foliage, the tropical sanctuary is inspired by traditional Polynesian architecture that uses a mix of bamboo, exotic woods, stones and coral, along with thatched pandanus roofs, Marquesan “tapa” cloths and woven coconut “nape” ropes. It’s easy to feel welcomed at this getaway, thanks to the knowledgeable staff members, who exude warm Tahitian hospitality.
You can choose to bob in the shimmering lagoon, or relax on the beach or by the outdoor infinity pool. Or, you can enjoy the other Le Taha’a amenities and activities, including a fitness centre, tennis courts, scuba diving and a snorkeling centre.
The peaceful view from the shallow lagoon just off the deck of one of the overwater bungalow suites at Le Taha’a.
The T vai Spa can help restore your mind-body balance. It incorporates monoi, a traditional Polynesian moisturizer that infuses the delicate aromas of the Tiaré flower into pure coconut oil for use in massages, body exfoliations and wraps.
There are also excursions like hiking, jeep safari tours, boating adventures and helicopter services, but resting and relaxing is the preferred activity for most at this quiet and calm haven.
When it comes to on-site dining, Le Taha’a’s three restaurants take guests on a culinary journey worthy of the Relais et Châteaux designation. The beachside Titiraina Restaurant is a perfect retreat for an al fresco lunch of grilled meat or fish, including a catch-of-the-day special, and refreshing poisson cru, a salad of raw tuna marinated with vegetables, lime juice and freshly squeezed coconut milk.
Tehutu Bar at the entrance of Le Hawaiki Nui at Le Taha’a by Pearl Resorts.
Meanwhile, the Bar Manuia offers a pool-side tipple with light snacks. For happyand evening-hour cocktails served with the chef’s tapas selection, head to the Tiki Bar. Those seeking a gourmet experience should find time for dinner at the elegant Ohiri Restaurant, which serves creative French-Polynesian cuisine paired with a diverse selection of renowned wines.
Titiraina Restaurant serves a refined poisson cru that’s not only a delight to eat, but presents the raw tuna and vegetables salad in an elegant manner.
The main restaurant, Le Hawaiki Nui, specializes in contemporary international and local specialties. It’s here that you can savour vanilla rum duck foie gras. Open for breakfast and dinner, the space is set amongst the trees overlooking the Taha’a lagoon and the resort’s lush gardens. Every Tuesday, it’s also the site of a live Polynesian show.
At Le Hawaiki Nui, the traditional korori (mother-of-pearl mussel) delicacy is served as a ceviche with mango, extra virgin coconut oil and truffle.
Those seeking a private, romantic moment can choose between a breakfast delivered by canoe to your room, a private lunch on a heart-shaped sandbank in the middle of the lagoon, or dinner on the beach or in the privacy of the suite or villa.
How to get there: 35 minutes from the Raiatea airport, or five minutes away from the village of Tapuamu with the resort’s shuttle boats; a 15-minute helicopter ride from Bora Bora.
Le Taha’a Island Resort & Spa
BP 67 Patio, Taha’a, 98733
+689 40 50 76 01
$1,250/night (package rates available)
Lavish Retreat: St. Regis Bora Bora Resort
Known as The Pearl of the South Seas, Bora Bora is a bucket-list destination for romance. Admired for its unrivalled landscape of luxurious resorts, the island is home to pampering hospitality and sparkling opalescent waters that stretch out from white sand beaches.
St. Regis Bora Bora’s overwater bungalows.
Featuring the majestic, jagged peaks of Mount Otemanu and Mount Pahia, the lush green, dormant volcano island is nearly an atoll with a wide reef that encircles one of the world’s most beautiful lagoons. A tropical theme park that has unforgettable mountain views, you can easily spend a day on a boat, swimming in shallow waters with black-tip reef sharks and rays, snorkeling, kayaking, or relaxing on a secluded beach.
Catering to discerning and deep-pocketed patrons, the luxury leader is St. Regis Bora Bora Resort with its impeccable service and incomparable hospitality. From the moment you arrive at the airport, you are escorted by the resort’s shuttle directly to the elegant tropical retreat.
Tour the sprawling 18-hectare property on bicycles assigned to each guest for the duration of the stay, before being introduced to your room’s butler. The latter, a signature St. Regis service, provides 24-hour care that looks after every detail, including luggage packing and unpacking services. They will perfectly press your suit or dress, or arrange coffee and tea service with your morning wake up-calls.
The spacious accommodations start at 1,550 square feet and are luxuriously wrapped with warm exotic noble woods, handwoven fabrics and regional art. Popular with honeymooning couples, the seductive and recently refreshed overwater bungalow-style suites feature a bedroom with an adjoining bathroom resplendent with Italian marble.
The spacious suites at St. Regis Bora Bora start at 1,550 square feet and include an assortment of experiences, including the five-star resort’s signature butler service.
With plenty of glass panels overlooking the aqua lagoon waters below, the suites have a separate lounge and open terrace with a dining gazebo. Premium suites have decks with whirlpools and outdoor showers.
The family-friendly resort also has exquisitely designed beachside and reef-side garden villas with royal treatment that includes a private chef on request and a private beach.
The St. Regis Bora Bora’s private Lagoonarium is an underwater sanctuary of tropical fish and coral.
Spend your vacation relaxing on the property’s three beaches, or try activities, such as kayaking and paddleboarding.
Retreat to the adults-only Oasis pool, or splash around in the family-friendly main pool before enjoying a cocktail at the swim-up bar.
For a truly spectacular experience, snorkel at the private Lagoonarium, where you can get close and personal with the colourful marine life. Learn about the protective efforts being made during the public fish feeding by the property’s marine specialist, Damien Mainnemare.
Roam through Kincaid Galleries in the Concierge lounge for limitededition prints by John Kincaid that can be shipped free of charge. Pop into Maeva Boutique for unique souvenirs, which might include creating your own monoï oil or other keepsakes. This is also where you can purchase special environmentally respectful fish food for feeding the inhabitants of the Lagoonarium.
Those wishing to maintain their workout regime will find a Fitness Centre that’s fully furnished with sophisticated strength-training and ergonomically advanced equipment.
Others may wish to unwind with a body nurturing treatment at Iridium Spa. Feel rejuvenated with the traditional Polynesian Taurumi, a medium-pressure massage, or the deep-tissue Balinese Puai, which employs long strokes, pressure points and stretching. There’s also the miri miri oil massage that uses Tahitian-grown basil in an invigorating treatment.
But it’s the 13,000-square-foot spa’s location in the heart of the Lagoonarium that is worth carving out an afternoon to bask in. Few things can match the absolute serenity felt gazing at an unobstructed view of Mount Otemanu while sinking your toes into the fine sand of its tranquil beach with schools of tropical fish swimming by.
The Iridium Spa at St. Regis Bora Bora is a 13,000-square-foot haven in the middle of the Lagoonarium.
The resort’s culinary program offers guest plenty to indulge in at its five different restaurants, in addition to in-room dining or a private arranged beachside dinner. For something truly special, wake up to a canoe breakfast delivered to your suite by an outrigger canoe. Enjoy a short canoe cruise around the pristine blue lagoon as the attentive staff set up your terrace breakfast spread that you can indulge in while admiring the morning sun’s glow over the dreamy island paradise.
The luxurious Canoe Breakfast includes the chance to take a ride in the lagoon as breakfast is being set up.
There’s Te Pahu Restaurant for an elevated breakfast experience that includes a juice-yogurt parfait fruit salad amuse bouche trio before launching into refined made-to-order numbers that include French toast, daily smoked fish and tuna
sashimi.
Wednesdays are Moana Night, where the restaurant’s kitchen creates a contemporary six-course tasting menu, including delightful long-nose Emperor fish cakes, punchy Moorea’s shrimp pil pil and smoked swordfish tartare.
Meanwhile, Bam Boo serves Japanese- and Chinese-inspired fusion cuisine that showcases sushi with teppanyaki and wok cooking. Far Niente caters to those seeking traditional Italian fare and Aparima Bar is the guests’ choice for light meals, including poisson cru and cocktails like the watermelon-spiked Bora.
Bam Boo’s Japanese- and Chinese-inspired fusion cuisine may feature Paraha peue, a lagoon fish, from the teppan that’s served with a tropical sauce, fried rice and sautéed vegetables.
For the ultimate treat, make a reservation at the resort’s signature restaurant, Lagoon by Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Start with a flute of champagne to open the St. Regis sabering ritual that’s held each evening, before progressing to inventive cocktails on the 727 bar’s overwater terrace.
Offering striking views of Mount Otemanu through its glass walls, Lagoon is known to attract guests from nearby resorts and is considered Bora Bora’s top dining destination. Specializing in chef Vongerichten’s renowned French-Asian cuisine, the menu spotlights ingredients from French Polynesia that can be experienced à la carte, or as part of a signature tasting menu. The latter is a five-course degustation, featuring fresh local treasures, from pristine local catches to freshly pressed coconut milk and chocolate made from cocoa sourced from the South Pacific.
The view from Mont Popoti. See how Bora Bora’s large lagoon abruptly changes from turquoise to sapphire from 200 metres above.
Paired expertly with a fine and predominantly French wine list, this is where sophistication meets restraint. Flavours dance in harmony without overwhelming one another and the quality of the ingredients are apparent.
Here, chef Nicholas Nguyen’s opening volley can include lightly poached shrimp on a chickpea salad, followed by a beautiful raw red tuna course that’s a refined version of poisson cru. The latter is dotted with spicy carrot gel, pickled onions, bubbly-crisp rice crackers, cool cucumber water and sided by a shot of fresh coconut milk.
Renowned for his French-Asian cuisine, the menu at Lagoon by JeanGeorges Vongerichten spotlights ingredients from French Polynesia, including a raw red tuna course that’s a refined version of poisson cru.
Nguyen’s seared octopus course sings against a soya- and sesame-dressed white cabbage slaw that’s matched with the Brasserie de Tahiti’s Hinano amber ale. The roasted uravena—an uncommon reef fish—is an unctuous foil to the spectacular beef-red wine broth that’s poured tableside, while the unassuming Challans chicken features a pan-seared supreme on pan-fried rice that’s bathed in the most sensational pho-like chicken teriyaki/star anise broth.
For a lasting final impression, the meal closes with a modern pina coladainspired cheesecake, with a rich and sandy coconut sablé base and there’s a gold leaf-christened coconut sorbet, compressed pineapples and curls of fresh coconut.
How to get there: Air Tahiti flies (with short stopovers) to Bora Bora’s Motu Mute Airport Raiatea airport, where the resort’s shuttle picks you up. There is also a private helicopter pad for direct access.
St. Regis Bora Bora
Motu Ome’e Bp 506, Bora Boral
+ 689 60 7888
From $1,550/night (package rates available)
