Being appointed as Riccardo Tisci’s replacement, Daniel Lee presented his first collection as Burberry Chief Creative Director at London Fashion Week on February 20. In this Burberry’s Autumn Winter 2023 collection, check is presented in bold colours across tailoring, blanket coats and knits – alongside an evolution of the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD). The trench coat is oversized with faux fur-trimmed lapels, the car coat deconstructed, the duffle and aviator exaggerated with softer silhouettes. A homegrown thread is reinforced by pleated tartan-inspired kilts over trousers, chunky Aran and argyle jumpers and British motifs, including the English rose. Casual shoe styles draw on the functionality of the brand, from heritage-inspired equestrian boots to rubber rain boots. Sneakers are amplified, whilst a signature square shape frames sandals, mules and pumps in iterations that include cosy faux fur and shearling. Bags draw on the outdoor aesthetic that Burberry is known for, saddle bags and satchels in sturdy colours and fabrics carry an initial ‘b’ that also forms its fastening. Details are considered and functional.
Daniel Lee
