In unveiling the first novelty, the Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton continues its journey through the exclusive world of High Watchmaking timepieces. Paying tribute to the Sichuan Opera’s Bian Lian, the virtuoso decoration of this specific watch presents a traditional mask that comes to life and changes expression on demand. An artistic performance driven by a virtuoso movement entirely conceived, developed, and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
Bian Lian, this “art of changing masks” characteristic of the Sichuan Opera is a major source of inspiration for the Tambour Opera Automata watch. To transpose this mysterious interplay of faces to a watch case, Louis Vuitton enlisted the help of the greatest contemporary craftsmen. Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, Master Watchmakers at La Fabrique du Temps, created this exceptional watch movement, while Anita Porchet, Master Enameller, and Dick Steenman, Master Engraver, decorated the timepiece with virtuoso design.
By choosing to celebrate the Sichuan Opera, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton is taking its mastery of contemporary fine watchmaking to the next level. Indeed, this timepiece, which is the subject of several patents, took over two years to develop. As with the Tambour Carpe Diem, the time is only displayed on the dial – by means of a jumping hour and a retrograde minute mechanism – by activating the automaton. This calibre LV 525, totalling 426 components, has a power reserve of 100 hours.
As for the automaton mechanism, its five animations create a unique and unforgettable 16-second watchmaking spectacle, driven by this exceptional calibre with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. When the latch is pushed, the engraved pink gold dragon’s head rises to reveal the jumping hours inscribed on the forehead of the cloisonné enamel Bian Lian, while its tail indicates the retrograde minutes. The mask’s expression changes dramatically – its eyebrows frown, its eyelid closes over its left eye, and the pupil of its right eye retracts to reveal a pointed Monogram flower. Going from joy to sadness through the movement of its chin, the Bian Lian mask expresses a wide range of emotions.
To root this Tambour Opera Automata in the 21st century, Louis Vuitton has combined traditional Chinese symbols with the brand’s emblematic design elements, such as the canvas pattern and the Monogram flowers enamelled on the dial. Reigning supreme, the imperial dragon, a mythical creature associated with ancient Chinese emperors, represents strength, power and nobility.
The fan by its side is a sign of wisdom and authority. As for the clouds, they symbolise good luck, and the gourd in the shape of a calabash is believed to protect people from evil spirits. As an ultimate refinement, the Asian unlucky number 4 in the time display is replaced by a four-petalled Monogram flower.
Crafted in white, red and black cloisonné enamel separated with white gold threads, the mask owes its flawless workmanship to the master enameller Anita Porchet. The fan is given remarkable depth through the champlevé enamel technique, which involves removing some material from the surface in order to deposit colour pigments. The enamelling of the dial and crown took over seven days to complete.
Crafted over a period of nearly two weeks by the famous Swiss engraver Dick Steenman, the details engraved in the precious metal give the Tambour Opera Automata an unparalleled level of relief. The pink-gold dragon displays its expressive character in the smallest of details (piercing ruby eyes, engraved and sandblasted scales, etc.). So much so that it appears to literally leap out of the Bian Lian’s mask to reveal, open-mouthed, the time display.
The push button of the automaton depicting a dragon’s head, as well as the winding crown and adorned with a champlevé enamel fan, are entirely hand-made. Finally, pushing sophistication and technicality to the extreme, Louis Vuitton has reproduced the shape of the Chinese mask on the back of the movement, contrasting a shot-blasted finish with a perfect mirror polish, without the slightest flaw.
