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Damascus steel holds a special place in the world of fine watchmaking, thanks to its legendary history and unique craftsmanship. Although the Damascus steel used in modern watchmaking no longer follows the original ancient formula, the patterns and material characteristics reproduced through modern forging techniques still make it a popular choice in haute horologerie.
Damascus steel was originally a medieval steel forging technique, characterized by its surface patterns resembling flowing water, with banded and mottled textures, sometimes appearing as stepped or rose-like motifs. These textures and patterns are created through repeated forging and folding of different types of steel and alloys.
The material used in Damascus steel is Wootz steel, which actually originated in southern India. As for why it is named “Damascus steel,” some say Damascus was the centre of this technique, while others say there was a master craftsman named Damascus. In any case, Damascus steel was known for its exceptional toughness and resistance to cracking. It was first used for making knives and swords, which had extremely sharp and durable edges with rippled patterns on the blade.
By the end of the 19th century, the original technique of making Damascus steel had been lost. Although modern metallurgists and steelmaking experts have conducted in-depth research and proposed various theories of production, to this day, the ancient method has not been fully understood or recreated.
The Damascus steel of today is more of a modern technical reimagining of the layered, banded textures and patterns—particularly in high-end watchmaking, where many brands enthusiastically incorporate these linear motifs into their designs.
Louis Erard Regulator X GoS
Swedish watch brand GoS has long been known for its Damascus steel watchmaking techniques, so its collaboration with Swiss brand Louis Erard naturally centres around the steels’ lines and textures—using Damascus steel to evoke the wood grain and tree rings found in the forests of Switzerland’s Jura mountains. This collaboration took three years, resulting in 178 limited edition timepieces.
Each of these watches is completely unique, all thanks to the application of Damascus steel craftsmanship. every pattern is determined by the unpredictable nature of the forging process. GoS started the collaboration with Swedish bladesmith and metal artisan Conny Persson in 2021. Persson is a Swedish bladesmith and metal artisan who has specialized in making mosaic Damascus steel knives since 1991. His work is known for its intricate patterns and exquisite handcraft, and it is often used in high-end custom knives and watches.
The Damascus steel for this collaboration was forged by Persson and meticulously hand-finished by watchmaking master Patrik sjögren. each dial undergoes a proprietary bath treatment to enhance its contrast, making the greys brighter and the blacks deeper, creating a striking sense of visual depth.
REFERENCE: 85248AA03.BSA02
MOVEMENT: Cal. Sellita SW200-1 Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, seconds
CASE: Stainless steel with Damascus steel dial
POWER RESERVE: 38 hours
WATERPROOF: 50 m
BRACELET: Black salmon leather strap with steel pin buckle
EDITION: 178 pieces
PRICE: Approximately US$5,090
Venezianico Nereide Damasco
In the middle Ages through the renaissance, Venice was a powerful maritime republic, relying on metallurgical technology for shipbuilding, minting coins, and manufacturing weapons and cannons. As a hub for East-West trade, it imported materials such as Bohemian iron, Hungarian silver, Arab copper, and even Chinese metal crafts. Venezianico honors the ancient Damascus steel craftsmanship of Venice, the “Queen of the seas,” with the creation of the Nereide Damasco diver’s watch.
Venezianico stacks, forges, and hammers multiple layers of steel up to hundreds of times, creating a dense, durable structure and revealing the distinctive wavy grain. This repeated fusion of alloys forms unique patterns.
After the steel disc is cut, it undergoes an acid-etching process to enhance its natural texture, revealing striking and eye-catching patterns. It is then finished with precise mirror polishing, accentuating the contrast between textures and adding depth and dynamism to the dial.
REFERENCE: 4521565
MOVEMENT: Automatic Cal. Sellita SW200-1
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
CASE: 316L stainless steel with Damascus steel dial
POWER RESERVE: 38 hours WATERPROOF: 200 m
BRACELET: Grey leather
EDITION: 500 pieces
PRICE: Approximately $1,630
Franck Muller Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
To celebrate the 70th anniversary of the prestigious Asian watch retailer Sincere Fine Watches, renowned Swiss haute horologerie brand Franck Muller, a long-standing partner, has launched the Vanguard Damascus steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition in 2024.
The Vanguard Damascus steel is crafted using a unique alloy of two austenitic stainless steels formed through advanced powder metallurgy that enhances shock resistance and eliminates impurities, allowing the movement to function unhindered.
Featuring a skeletonized movement with bridges entirely crafted from Damascus steel, each timepiece undergoes a specialized acid bath process, revealing distinctive striated patterns on the surface. Precision finishing techniques such as mirror polishing, bevelling, and diamond polishing enhance the refined details of the design.
REFERENCE: V43 S6 SQT DAMAS SINCERE 70TH (5N)
MOVEMENT: MVT FM 1740-VS2
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, seconds at 6 o’clock
CASE: Damascus steel
POWER RESERVE: 7 days
WATERPROOF: 30 m
BRACELET: Handsewn black alligator leather strap with Damascus steel buckle EDITION: 28 pieces
EDITION: 28 pieces
PRICE: Approximately US$55,000
