Chanel’s White Camellia

by Leslie Yip

Story | Leslie Yip

Since 2009, Chanel has made the white camellia the main ingredient of its Hydra Beauty line. The pristine flower is not only an iconic motif for the house, but it also holds a few remarkable properties.

For instance, they are genetically programmed not to die. International camellia expert Jean Thoby explains: “Camellias have the characteristic of having no senescence program. So the more time passes, the more beautiful and strong the plant is.”

International camellia expert Jean Thoby says the Camellia japonica ‘Alba Plena’ for Chanel has been in his ancestral collection’s catalogue since 1864, but it was not until 1998, when the Chanel research team began experimentation on these plants, that he realized they could be so interesting.

Since 1998, Thoby has been in collaboration with Chanel for the cultivation, preservation and study of Mademoiselle’s favourite flower. Thoby’s family has been botanizing for five generations, and his pride is a unique botanical conservatory garden in southwestern France, in the heart of the village of Gaujacq.

Dedicated to plant conservation, it shelters 2,000 varieties of camellias, gleaned from around the world, including two seedlings from the mother plants that were supposedly ordered by Gabrielle Chanel more than a century ago.

This region in France is ideal for the camellia, which arrived from Asia by the Tea Road in the 17th century. The average summer and winter temperatures are very similar to those of southern China and Japan, where the plants originate. Flowers of Camellia japonica ‘Alba Plena’ appear with the first frost in January and bloom is at its peak in March. Odourless, this delicate flower is a force of nature: neither water nor cold have the slightest effect on its petals.

By studying its winter frost resistance, Chanel Research has established its exceptional moisturizing properties. “We found catechin derivatives, polyphenols that have demonstrated interesting moisturizing activities,” explains Nicola Fuzzati, Director of Innovation and Development of Cosmetic Ingredients at Chanel.

Developed from the flowers of the camellia plant, their benefits are at the heart of Hydra Beauty skincare products, which cocoon the skin in hydration and protection, day after day. The tailormade formulas, with textures that range from light to creamy, from invigorating to comforting, leave skin intensely hydrated and plump.

Hydra Beauty Micro Liquid Essence, 150ml | $135
Hydra Beauty Camelia Glow Concentrate, 15ml | $120
Hydra Beauty Micro Sérum, 30ml | $128
Hydra Beauty Micro Crème, 50g | $125

The hydrating active ingredients extracted from white camellia include an ultra-concentrated lipidic ingredient known for its exceptional content of essential fatty acids. With a composition similar to that of the upper layer of the epidermis, it helps reinforce the integrity of the skin barrier for a visibly plumping and smoothing effect.

Camellia wax is another nourishing ingredient. Derived from camellia seeds, it is composed of 92 per cent stearic acid, which is naturally present in the skin’s hydrolipidic film. When combined with a hyaluronic acid derivative, it leaves a
protective film on the face that prevents the evaporation of water and promotes a plumping effect.

The Chanel Hydra Beauty line features a multitude of products and textures that can be mixed and matched to create a regimen tailored to your skin’s need any time of the year.

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