Chopard introduces its latest Haute Joaillerie masterpiece — the Insofu Emerald collection, a stunning fusion of natural beauty, sustainable luxury, and exceptional craftsmanship. For only the second time in its history, the Maison has chosen to craft an entire collection from a raw single uncut emerald, embracing both the raw potential of the stone and the uncertainties that come with it. By working directly with the source, Chopard ensures full traceability while honoring its commitment to responsible luxury.
The story of the Insofu Collection began in 2022 in Paris, when Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s visionary Co-President and Artistic Director, unveiled an astonishing 6,225-carat rough emerald, unearthed in Zambia a few years prior. Awestruck, the miners named it Insofu, meaning “elephant” in the local Bemba language — a nod to its trunk-like shape and unprecedented colossal size. Captivated in turn by its vivid colour, shifting hues, and unique character, Caroline Scheufele acquired the gem, sure it would yield stones destined to become the centrepiece of extraordinary jewels. Unlike a rough diamond, whose yield in terms of diamond types and carats can be determined by specific tools with scientific precision, a rough emerald is an even bolder undertaking, as the stone only reveals its true potential during the fraught cutting process.
Caroline Scheufele with Chopard Insofu Emerald before cutting
Chopard brought the world’s most skilled gem-cutters from India to its Geneva workshops to meticulously study the gem and propose cuts and facets to reveal its inherent beauty, while preserving its unique soul. This proved to be a lengthy and delicate venture lasting nearly a year, given emeralds are notoriously fragile and demand the utmost expertise. Their internal inclusions, known as “jardin,” require careful handling: cutting too close to them may create fractures that can spread across the gem. Moreover, it is essential to ensure the inclusions’ position does not overshadow the stone’s brilliance. Ultimately, the Insofu gem yielded 850 carats of breathtaking emeralds, each a testament to the artisans’ unparalleled skill and dedication.
The first chapter of the Insofu Collection debuted last year during Oscars week, with the release of a parure composed of a necklace, a pair of earrings and a ring. This year, Chopard unveils a new chapter with an Haute Joaillerie collection of 15 exquisite pieces — five pairs of earrings, four necklaces, three rings, a bracelet and a jewellery watch. Each jewel reflects a different facet of the Insofu Emerald’s character, drawing influences from the organic and fluid lines of nature, abstract forms, and the rigorous elegance of Art Deco. Their unifying element lies in the embodiment of the joie de vivre so vividly portrayed by Francis Scott Fitzgerald in The Great Gatsby.
At the heart of the Collection is an elephant-shaped pendant – a tribute to the name Insofu. This signature piece features emeralds of various shapes and sizes, framed by shimmering diamonds that form the elephant’s tusks. It is suspended from a long chain interspersed with emeralds and diamonds. Notably, the elephant’s trunk is raised upward – a gesture replete with symbolism, representing prosperity and good fortune.
The collection also includes elegant Art Deco-inspired chokers, flowing long necklaces almost grazing the waist, evoking the audacity of the Roaring Twenties, a statement cuff, imposing cocktail rings, and showstopping earrings. The extravagance of the era vividly depicted by Francis Scott Fitzgerald’s masterpiece The Great Gatsby (1925) is expressed through a one-of-a-kind ensemble of four necklaces, forming a singular set — endless possibilities for styling that celebrate personal expression. At its heart is a refined diamond choker, twinkling with a vibrant 2.50-carat square-cut emerald. This is elegantly complemented by a second necklace festooned with pink sapphires and emeralds, holding an extraordinary 15.53-carat octagonal emerald. Bringing an element of fluidity to the set, a long necklace interlaces emeralds, pearls, and diamonds, creating a captivating harmony of textures and colours. A delicate sautoir of pink pearls adds a touch of softness to this remarkable set and perfectly balances out the bolder pieces.
Against a backdrop of tightly woven pearls, a vertical motif of emerald-studded foliage gracefully weaves through a statement cuff, delicately embracing vibrant emerald-cut tsavorites. The smooth, soft, rounded pearls juxtaposed against the sharp facets of the stones create a refined interplay of textures and forms. The design elegantly unites the sea, embodied by the pearls, and the earth, represented by the verdant leaves. Together, they recall the symbiosis of these two realms of nature.
“In every stone lies a story, and my role is to listen and honour the natural magic they carry as treasures from the Earth,” says Caroline Scheufele. “With the Insofu Collection, it was about respecting this inherent beauty. I chose the finest quality stones from the heart of the emerald, pairing them with diamonds, pink sapphires, and pearls”.
Caroline Scheufele has also decided to align the launch of the Insofu collection with support for Elephant Family, an organization dedicated to working with local conservation experts to address the challenges faced by Asian wildlife and the indigenous communities living alongside them. By connecting the discovery of nature’s rare treasures with a noble cause, Chopard demonstrates its sincere and longstanding commitment to sustainable luxury. A portion of the proceeds from each piece in the collection will be donated to Elephant Family and its related projects.
